11:08 PM CEST
Humbling Experiences in Spain
This
morning we made an executive decision to ignore our alarm clock and still sleep
until about 11:30 AM. As mentioned
earlier… this is perfectly acceptable in Spain… we’ll save the getting up early
for Paris. We knew today that we wanted
to go to Montjuic and then finish the day off at the beach. Once we finally got our acts together around
12:30, we headed out to our favorite Dunkin Donuts which was right next to La
Boqueria! Get this… it was open!! This
market was fantastic. It kind of looked
like something Andrew Zimmern (uh.. bizarre foods? If you don’t know Andrew
Zimmern, please go and watch more Travel Channel and then come back!) would sit
and eat at! There were lots of bizarre looking fishies and miscellaneous cow,
lamb (what have you) body parts to taste test.
In addition to the random animal bits available, there was a lot of
delicious looking fruit, chocolate, vegetables, nuts, and much more, to shop
for, for very reasonable prices. Andy
says that it still wasn’t as cramped as markets in China but we were still
extra careful to not get pick pocketed. Pictures later!!
After
the market we went to a Turkish place recommended by Courtney for lunch called
La Turca. For the record… she didn’t
give us that name… she just said “get the doner kababs off of Las
Ramblas”! Okay… that could be
anywhere. But luck would have it, 2
minutes walking distance from our hostel, we found a place advertising
something about doner kababs for €3.50. Bargain. They were delicious too!! Much better than the majority of the Spanish
food we tried.
Then we
set out for Montjuic which is a park up in the mountains where the Barcelona
Olympic games had their opening ceremonies and some events, like swimming and
diving. The trek up this mountain was
almost as big of a work out as Parc Guell was yesterday, but the gardens along
the way were beautiful… there was even a hotel up there that we assume we would
not have been able to afford to stay in :P The flowers made me think of my
Madre… she loves gardens, flowers and funny looking trees… all of the above
were found here! This park is not only
on a mountain, but it’s also a labyrinth of paths and roads and such to get to
the sites all the tourists want to see.
After several wrong turns and breaking out into a serious sweat, we
finally found what I Really wanted to see: the Palau National, or rather, the
Art Museum. Ever since Courtney lived in
Barcelona I’ve been jealous of this particular site from her pictures! After getting a sangria at the top (yumm) and
taking lots of pictures,
it was time for the beach.
At this
point, we’re boasting about how great we are about getting around the city, and
that we’re clever, and good at figuring things out… etc. etc. So we figure out how to take the Metro to a
stop that we think will bring us close to the beach. We take the red line to Marina (makes sense
right? Marina… beach… we thought so too.).
But as soon as we get off we know we’ve done something wrong. After consulting the map, we find out that
we’re actually several blocks north of the beach in a neighborhood called
Poblenou. Not all sections of Poblenou
are bad, but had we known this walk to the beach would have been the way it
was, we would have gotten right back on the train and gone back the other
way. This section of town (again, Red
Line towards Fondo, stop: Marina) looked like the projects of Barcelona. It was mostly run down... and although there
were cars parked almost everywhere, there were no people… and especially no
tourists with cute Barcelona bags. These
10+ blocks or so, south to the beach were the quietest and fastest that Andy
and I had had yet in Barcelona. We
passed by lots of run down buildings, car repair shops, dodgy alleys, vans, and
things we feel like we weren’t supposed to see at all (including two passed out
people in a large van with some guy just standing by… were they sleeping? Were
they passed out? We don’t know). This
walk was absolutely terrifying and we’re only glad it happened in broad
daylight and not at night. The lesson
learned here is always ALWAYS verify the Metro stop you’re using on your actual
street map. The train maps shrink
everything down and make things look closer together than they are. We thought this stop was closer to the beach
and we didn’t actually check where it was on our street map. If this happens again we’re marching our
asses right back on the train. Nothing is worse than feeling unsafe.
Once we
finally made it to the beach, we strolled around for a bit, but we had awful
blisters and aches from practically sprinting ten blocks through the
projects. After walking around, we
rejoin a gaggle of tourist on their way to Las Ramblas (ie, our home for the
past 3 nights) and check out another place that Courtney recommended called Can
Paixano. She warned me that it was tiny
with no room to sit but it was still worth it… for €6.90 we got two sandwiches
and two glasses of pink champagne (rosado!!) and it was definitely the best
bang for our buck we’ve had so far! Even though it was jam packed and everyone
was pushing each other, this place was well worth it!
Finally
back on La Rambla, we stroll into our favorite Temple Bar (pub off of Ferran)
for some “snakebites” (½ beer, ½ cider)
and €3 Estrella drafts at happy hour.
The music there played everything from The Cure to Kylie Monogue to 50
Cent. Naturally I love it. About an hour in, a giant group of old people
starting marching the street with signs and loud bomb-like noise makers. The only reason this wasn’t terrifying was
because the bar tenders looked so not surprised by it. When I asked one of them, he said in his
broken English: I don’t even know why they protest! They do this every week on
the same day… they are pretty old… maybe they just don’t like the banks and
pensions. L.O.L.
So
that’s the end of our Barcelona adventure.
I’ve been bugging Andy to write something because he has a different
take on everything (ie, what he thought of the terrifying neighborhood of
Poblenou and how he saw some restaurant worker put meatballs off someone’s old
plate back into the platter…) but we’ll see if that actually happens. He’s snoring again.
Wow. This was an emotional post. First I was all happy about the garden and how it made you think of your dear old mom, and then I was all afraid for you as you wandered through the less than desirable neighborhood. But, really, what an experience to see all these contrasting parts of the city! It's so much better than just the fancy hotels and the touristy things, even if it does take you way outside your comfort zone!
ReplyDeleteI feel like I am THERE!!! Great writing!! :-)
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