May the 22nd, 11:42 PM, Paris
Tonight
Andy and I had the best croissant, almond pastry and braided pretzel bread we’ve
ever had in our entire life. We bought
them from the extremely kind pastry
chef across the street from our bed and breakfast in Paris. She didn’t speak one single word of English
but we got the point across with pointing and smiling. Our time in Paris hasn’t been easy so far,
however… let me tell the story of how Andy and I almost spent our first
Parisian night on the street, in the rain, with the hobos.
This
morning we got up early to check out of the Barcelona hostel (FINALLY!!). I took one last, awful “shower” in our moldy
bathroom, we got our deposit back for the keys and never turned back! Down Las
Ramblas, we got coffee and fruit from La Boqueria (it was open again today!
That’s two days in a row! So impressed).
We bid our farewells to Barcelona and hopped on the Aerobus back to the
airport. Our flight to Paris cost about
$75 each through EasyJet. The flight
wasn’t bad at all actually… boarding was kind of a pain because they don’t tell
you the gate number until the flight is actually boarding… so that’s kind of a
scramble. Then they make everyone prove
that their carry ons can fit in the luggage compartment by making them fit
their bags into an equal sized box they have at the gate. If your luggage doesn’t fit, it’s a €40
charge to check it from the gate. Our
backpacks didn’t even raise an eyebrow as they let us just skate by without
making us prove they fit. Mainly they’re
looking at bags with wheels or anything that just looks oversized. The flight doesn’t come with food or drink
(unless you bought them) but it was only an hour and forty five minutes long so
we didn’t mind.
We
landed in Charles de Gaulle airport, and due to just bad math on my part (not
used to military time!!) I realized I had absentmindedly given the wrong
arrival time to our bed and breakfast owner.
I meant to say we would be there between 5 and 8, but I accidentally
selected 15:00 and 18:00 which is obviously 3 and 5. Such a dumb, I-was-in-a-hurry
mistake. We figure we’ll call from the
airport … only to learn that confirmation didn’t have her phone number saved in
it!! In addition… we couldn’t get on any wifi.
Why is airport wifi always such a scam?? It should just be free!!
We went
to the tourism desk and got a map and some cash from the ATM. I think I know from memory the metro line to
take to the BnB so we just go for it.
The RER B Paris by Train will
take you straight from Charles de Gaulle to the heart of the city for €9.50. The ride reminded us of being on Chicago’s
Metra. We took the RER B to Chatelet
Halles and walked to the nearest metro stop with our line (M3… aka, puke green
line). Just getting out of that train
station was anxiety provoking. People
everywhere!! No one says excuse me, sorry or anything. If you stop in the middle, you will simply
get run over. No one will care. It’s a stampede of hurried French people. The station is even attached to a rather
large mall that you have to weave through just to get to the street.
Stepping
outside is like stepping into a new world.
There are people everywhere… puts Chicago to shame. So far, it’s nothing like the friendly,
English speaking tourist city of Barcelona.
It’s hectic and the people are brief and intimidating. We find the metro station we need and take
the puke green line to Gambetta which is what I thought we needed. Our dinky, free map from the airport doesn’t
even have the street on it that we need so we’re wandering around, lost, no
phone numbers to call, no internet and it starts raining. Lost and wet, we trekked back down to the
metro station and talked to the lady at the information desk that spoke a Tiny
bit of English. I wrote down the address we needed for her and she put an “X”
on our map of where it was supposed to be! I’ll put a picture of this up later. Turns out we needed one more stop on the
metro, and then the walk was less than ten minutes. We arrived at a beautiful cobblestone street
leading up to a gate that has two entrances.
We buzz but no one responds… Sound familiar? Keep in mind, it’s still
raining, we’re quite wet, exhausted, carrying all our things and arguing about
how to get a different hotel for the night.
Finally (thank god we’re a good team) Andy tries the buzzer again and
sure enough, you have to really push HARD on the biggest button (yeah there
were like 10 buttons) and someone responded.
A middle aged French woman with near-perfect English let us in. She scolded us and said “How can you get lost
in Paris?? Where is your map?”. Once she saw that her street wasn’t even on the
map she scolded us again.
We don’t
think she likes us much. We imagine to
her, we’re dumb, young, Americans. Which
we are, in a way; we like to say naïve instead of dumb though. We also imagine that she gets older people
staying here, most often, and likely not many Americans. People our age tend to stay in hostels near
the city center. I picked this place
because it looked sweet, got great reviews, and Rick Steves raves about Bed and
Breakfasts! After showing us around and lecturing us about how to become better
Europe travelers, she asks us what time for coffee in the morning and retires
to her part of the house. Essentially,
we’re staying in her house. We have the
lower level and she has the upper level!
The shower is the nicest one I’ve ever use… Andy described this place as
“nicer than my house!”. After where we
stayed in Barcelona, a little luxury is a welcomed relief. I took what felt like my first real shower in
nearly a week.
Before
it got dark, we walked across the street where we bought two pastries and way
more bread than we can eat, plus a 1.5L of Coke for €6.90. Our
love/hate/struggle relationship with Paris has begun. Tomorrow, we’re going straight to the Eifel
Tower and buying a proper tourist map from a street vendor!
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